Transfer Switches and Safe Connection Methods
Any generator that connects to a home's wiring, whether portable or permanently installed, needs a transfer switch or interlock device to prevent it from backfeeding power onto utility lines. Backfeeding through a dryer outlet with a makeshift cord is dangerous to utility workers and to anyone in the house, and it is not a shortcut we will install under any circumstances. A properly sized transfer switch isolates the home's wiring from the utility feed before generator power is connected, and that separation is the core safety requirement regardless of generator size.
For a portable generator, we typically install a manual transfer switch or interlock kit paired with an inlet box mounted on the exterior of the home. This lets the homeowner run a cord from the generator to the inlet rather than through a window or door, and it keeps the generator itself running outdoors, well away from windows, doors, and other openings where exhaust could enter the living space. A portable generator should never be run in a garage, carport, or any partially enclosed area, and it should be positioned with its exhaust directed away from the house.
A permanently installed standby generator uses an automatic transfer switch that senses a utility outage and switches the panel to generator power within seconds, without any manual steps. This is the option most Fort Washington homeowners move toward if outages are a recurring issue, since it covers the home automatically whether or not anyone is there when power drops.
- Transfer switch or interlock required for any generator connection — never a cord backfed through an outlet
- Portable generators run outdoors only, positioned away from windows, doors, and other openings
- Exterior inlet box lets a portable generator connect without running a cord through a door or window
- Automatic transfer switches available for permanently installed standby generators
Deciding Which Circuits Generator Power Should Cover
Not every circuit in the house needs to run during an outage, and trying to power everything with an undersized generator leads to overload trips at the worst possible time. We work through a load priority list with the homeowner — refrigeration, sump pump, a portion of lighting, and heating system controls are common priorities — and size the generator and transfer switch to that list rather than guessing. For whole-home standby systems, this same exercise determines whether a smaller unit with load management can cover the house or whether a larger unit is the better fit.
If your property relies on a sump pump, include its starting and operating requirements in the backup assessment. Its importance depends on your building and drainage arrangement, not a presumed neighborhood flooding risk.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I just plug my portable generator into an outlet during an outage?
No. Connecting a generator to household wiring without a transfer switch or interlock can backfeed power onto utility lines and endanger utility workers. A transfer switch or interlock is required for any generator connection.
Where should a portable generator be placed while running?
Outdoors, on a dry stable surface, well away from windows, doors, vents, and other openings, with the exhaust directed away from the home. It should never run in a garage or other enclosed or partially enclosed space.
How do I know what size generator I need?
We review the circuits you want covered during an outage and size the generator and transfer switch to that specific load list rather than to the full capacity of your panel.